Top-flite TOPA0140 Bedienungsanleitung

WARRANTY...Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in bothmaterial and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does n

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACESBUILD THE STAB❏ 1. Use your own method or the Hot Tipthat followsto glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm]

❏ 2. While you’re making skins, make a 6" x 15"[152 x 381mm] fin skin by cutting a 1/16" x 3" x30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa s

❏ 14. Trim the front of the ribs to accommodatethe bottom stab leading edges the same way youdid the top. Glue the stab leading edges to thestab core.

❏❏9. Use a razor plane and your bar sanderwith 80-grit sandpaper to sand the elevator andstab tips as shown on the plan. Avoid sanding the1/16" [

❏ 17. Drill a 3/32" [2.40mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm]deep in the center of the hinge slots. Use a rotarytool with a 3/32" [2.40mm] drill bit o

❏ 3. See the following photo and temporarily pinthe remainder of the 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm]balsa stick you used for the stab hinge block

❏ 5. Cut the rudder ribs from two 3/32" x 3/8" x24" [2.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] balsa sticks and one 3/32"x 1/2" x 12" [2.4 x 12

❏ 2. Mark rib 4 at the center of the leading edge.Lay a straightedge on the rib across the mark youmade and the trailing edge of the rib where itcomes

❏❏4. Remove the T-pins from the spar and gluethe ribs to it. As you glue each rib, simultaneouslypullthe spar up into the notch in the rib and pushthe

BUILD THE CENTER SECTION❏ 1. Align the center section wing plan over yourbuilding board and cover it with waxed paper.❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8"

TABLE OF CONTENTSAND BUILDING SEQUENCEINTRODUCTION ...3PRECAUTIONS...

❏ 16. Take the center section off of your building board.Perform steps 17 through 21 only if you arebuilding flaps.❏ 17. Mount your flap servo to two

Perform step 29 only if you are building flaps.❏ 29. Make the flap center pushrod from two 6"[152mm] rods that are threaded on one end, twothread

FIT THE LANDING GEAR❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue a 1/2" x 3/4" x6" [12.7 x 19.1 x 152mm] grooved basswood fixedgear mounting rail a

❏❏10. Temporarily mount your wheel to theaxle and retract the gear into the wing. Make surethe landing gear will operate correctly and there isno inte

SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING❏ 1. If you haven’t done so already, remove yourretracts from the wing. ❏ 2. Make sure all the ribs, spars, rails and trai

❏❏12. Cut the bottom skin to accommodate thelanding gear. First, cut a small hole under the retractrails for just the retract (not the wheel and strut

hatch where shown on the plan. Position the servowithin the lines you marked inside the hatchindicating where the rails are.❏❏7. Temporarily mount the

SHEET THE TOP OF THE WING❏ 1. If you haven’t already done so, make the topwing skins as described in steps 1, 2 and 3 onpage 23.Sheet the left side of

❏ 2. Test fit the flap skins to the wing and trimwhere needed for a good fit. Bevel the trailing edgeof the flap skins as shown in the sketch below.❏

❏❏12. Refer to the sketch above and drill 3/32"[2.40mm] holes in the inner TE for the hinges,keeping your drill aligned with the guidelineson the

INTRODUCTIONCongratulations and thank you for purchasing theTop Flite Gold EditionSpitfire. The model we havechosen to replicate is the Mk IX—the seco

BUILD THE AILERONS❏❏1. True upthe wing sheeting where theailerons will fit.❏❏2. Hold a die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsaaileron base up to the wing. Gl

❏ 15. Return to step 1 and build the other aileronthe same way.Let’s finish up the woodwork on the wing beforewe hook up the ailerons and move on to t

❏❏11. Glue a die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa hornblock to the bottom of the left aileron where shownon the plan. Sand the horn block to match theshape

❏ 4. Starting at the rear with former 10, glue thedie-cut and laser-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa formers 6through 10 and the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

❏ 10. See the following sketch and trim the sidesof the cockpit floor to match the contour of theinstrument panel, former 5 and former 6.❏ 11. Cut the

SHEET THE TOP OF THE FUSELAGE❏ 1. Blend the the stringers to the formers with asmall bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper.Refer to this photo for steps 2

MOUNT THE FIN AND STAB❏ 1. Slightly bevel the edges of the die-cut 1/4"[6.4mm] balsa fin spacer to match the taperingangle of the fuse sheeting.

stab. Trim the leading edge and the sheeting onboth sides of the fin until it fits the stab. Ifnecessary, enlarge the opening you cut in the stabsheet

❏ 4. Position the left and right lower crutches onthe upper crutches using the firewall, former 1B andformer 4B to hold the crutches in place. Glue th

❏ 7. Cut a 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 914mm] pushrodguide tube to a length of 29" [735mm]. Sand theguide tube with coarse sandpaper so glue wil

larger prop at lower RPM. This is often desirable forscale realism. Many .61 cu. in. [10.0cc] 2-strokeengines produce about as much horsepower as thep

Make adjustments if necessary and round theinside corners of the blocks for a finishedappearance. Securely glue the wing bolt blocks inplace with 30-m

❏ 9. Unscrew the #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws thathold the tail gear bracket to the tail gear plate andremove the bracket and tail gear wire. Trim th

❏ 6. Take the wing off the fuse. Tap threads in thewing bolt blocks with a 1/4-20 tap. Enlarge theholes in the wing only with a 17/64" [6.70mm] d

❏ 10. Blend the fillet to the fillet base and thefuselage with automotive Bondo, Squadron whiteor green putty or an other suitable filler. Sandwhen dr

❏ 13. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood cowlformer and the four 3/8" x 5/8" x 5/8" [9.5 x 15.9 x15.9mm] hardwood cowl blocks i

❏ 21. Use 30-minute epoxy or thin CA to apply a 1"[25mm] wide strip of glass cloth over the seams andscrew holes inside the cowl, where indicated

❏ 3. Make the throttle pushrod from a .074" x 12"[1.9 x 305mm] pushrod and a nylon clevis. Bend thepushrod as necessary and connect the clev

Refer to this photo for steps 8 through 11.❏ 8. If you have the elevators temporarilyattached to the stab, remove them for now. Cuttwo filler piecesfr

❏ 9. Mount your battery pack. On our model weused leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood to make a 1/8"[3.2mm]battery plateand two railsto hold theba

❏ 7. Reinstall the cockpit floor, instrument panel,sides and support rails the same way you didbefore. Securely glue all the parts in place with CA.❏

instrument panel, seat and armor back rest! Youdon’t install the cockpit kit until you are near theend of construction and no modifications to thefuse

COVER THE MODEL WITH MONOKOTEIt is assumed that you are an intermediate toadvanced modeler, so we won’t go into manydetails on covering techniques, bu

❏ 4. Take the covering off the fuse and cut alongthe lines you marked. Wipe away leftover ink witha tissue dampened with alcohol. There’s yourinvasion

JOIN THE CONTROL SURFACES❏ 1. Start with the stab and elevators. Remove asmall strip of covering from the hinge slots.❏ 2. Fit the hinges in only the

CANOPY❏ 1. Mask the canopy for painting with widemasking tape (or several standard size strips ofmasking tape). Apply the masking tape, then usethe fr

❏ 3. Use a belt sander or a rotary tool with asanding drum to trim the propellers along the linesyou marked to arrive at the correct outline.❏ 4. Sand

❏ 3. Make the antenna mast from a piece ofleftover 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood sandwichedbetween two pieces of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm]balsa. Sand t

The second method for applying panel lines is touse a Top Flite Smart Stripe™to cut narrow stripsof MonoKote film. Iron the panel lines in position.Bl

your wheels to the landing gear with a 3/16"[4.8mm] wheel collar on both sides of both wheels.Secure the wheel collars with a drop of thread lock

PREFLIGHTIDENTIFY YOUR MODELNo matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C clubsite or if you fly somewhere on your own, youshould always have your nam

❏ 2. Verify the C.G. ❏ 3. Secure the battery and receiver with a stripof balsa or plywood. Simply stuffing theminto place with foam rubber is not suff

❏ 3/32" [2.4mm] Wheel Collar for tailwheel(GPMQ4302)❏ 12 oz. [360cc] Fuel Tank (GPMQ4105)❏ 24" [610mm] Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing(GPMQ4131)

Make all engine adjustments from behind therotating propeller.The engine gets hot! Do not touch the engineduring or immediately after you operate it.

LANDINGWhen it’s time to land, fly a normal landing patternand approach. You will probably find that theSpitfire retains its airspeed quite well. Due

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2-VIEW DRAWINGUse this layout for trim scheme planning only. Not suitable for scale documentation.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES• There are two types of screws used in this kit.Sheet metal screws are designated by anumber and a length. For example #6 x 3

- 8 -DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 9 -DIE-CUT PATTERNS